La teinture naturelle est un savoir-faire ancestral.
Il s’agit d’une teinture à base de plantes tinctoriales (leurs racines, baies, fleurs, écorces, feuilles) ou de champignons ou lichens.
Il existe deux types de tissus :
- les tissus végétaux qui sont des fibres cellulosiques (coton, lin, chanvre…)
- les tissus animaux qui sont des fibres protéiniques (laine, soie…)
Etape 1 : mordançage.
Sert à préparer les fibres textiles à recevoir et fixer la couleur.
Le mordançage se fait avec des tanins ou des sels métalliques (aluminium, fer…). Il existe des tanins incolores (noix de galle) ou des tanins colorés (châtaigner, myrobolan…).
Selon le type de la fibre (cellulosique ou protéinique), les méthodes diffèreront. Les fibres cellulosiques comme la double gaze que nous utilisons pour nos Furoma recquièrent une première étape d’engallage pour amener des protéines au tissu et une seconde étape d’alunage pour amener de l’alun qui sert à fixer la couleur lors de la teinture.
Etape 2 : bain de teinture
La teinture se fait avec des plantes séchées et broyées ou sous forme d’extrait soluble dans l’eau.
La température du bain et la durée du trempage dépend de la fibre et de la couleur souhaitée.
Souvenir de notre atelier de teinture naturelle chez Colore ton Monde
Furoma en dégradé de cachou
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